So, the centreboard is out.
Now, the other day, I took a look up under the slot it sits in, and it is not in good condition. The sides are wavy and look distorted, and it looks like there have been previous repairs.
I suspect that the freezing and thawing cycle has deformed the fibreglass, both inside the trunk, and to a lesser degree on the outside of the hull.
The ice swells up, then when the thaw comes, the degraded sand-like cement fills the voids by shifting.
So, PLAN B.
I intend to cover the slot under the keel, being carefull to make it a secure repair, but also to have it reversible. That will put an end to any concerns regarding leaking, and the possibility of sudden leak increasing threatening the boat.
I can then re-evaluate after getting the boat working in the water.

I have now currently got the decks all sealed from rain getting in. I am working on the windows right now. I have to paint the cabin walls around the window holes, so I don't have to remove the windows again to caulk them.
I am using a product called 'butyl tape' which as a grey coloured tape stuff that can be worked like putty, but is as sticky as molasses.
I will be putting in some new windows made from Lexan later at some point, but for now, I am still struggling with getting the boat into the water, and so am re-using the old windows for now
Here is the rear deck area.
I have 'painted' it using gel coat. I did some experiments with adding a little french chalk as a filler.
I have removed 2 vents that were through the deck.
I will be adding pads to raise the places where the rear pulpit rail unit bolts on, as well as where all deck fitting attach. This will be to prevent standing water from being next to, or covering, any bolts that go right through into the cabin.
Here you can see the areas of filler where the stanchion bases will bolt back on. I still have to add the pads, which will be maybe 1/8" to 1/16" high, and maybe 4" square.
Also, the new paint can be seen. 
And just at the RH edge of the pic, the filler from where I filled in the hole where the compass went can be seen. The new compass with be mounted in a binnacle under the tiller area. I have to try sailing first to see where feet will go, and that will determine the exact mounting place.

Should have kept things up to date but didn't. Here are a few pics regarding the centreboard.


The centreboard is bigger when it is not installed in the boat!




The old epoxy is flaking, and being pushed off the steel by the rust. This mmight be what has cracked the centreboard trunk sides, and caused the leak(s).


I removed it by grinding grooves in the coating, then breaking it by levering under it with a large screwdriver - and yes, I know that I should not abuse tools!


I did some hammering of the flaky rust, as it saves grinding time, wheels, and effort.  The round things are holes filled with epoxy that have been used to link each side with the other, to key the epoxy to the board. As this is the first side that I worked on that is shown, the epoxy from the other side is still in place.


This is how far I got before time ran out, and I had to get back to more constructive things around the home! I intend grinding grooves that might act as rust stoppers in the future. Then I will be using it as a test bed, with part of it just painted, another with no paint, only polyester resin and mat, and another area with no paint, just epoxy and mat.
Here in Nova Scotia, Canada, the boat has to come out for the winter, or be crushed by sea ice, so it will be no problem to take a look at how things are going, before the next summer season starts.

It has been a long time, but no real progress!
I have installed some supporting joists under the foredeck, and fixed the delamination of the deck core material.
I have also plugged most of the thousand or so small screw holes where the cedar stripping was screwed down through the fibreglass deck.
And I pulled off the engine cylinder head, freed up a jammed valve, replaced the head, and have torqued it to a small degree, as at the time, I had no torque wrench available.
The plan, as far as the engine goes, is to torque the head fully to spec., then set some hoses up to allow the engine to be filled with coolant - antifreeze this time of the year, and then leave it to let it stand and see if the coolant goes down into the oilpan, which is currently empty.
Below is a pic of the joist - there are two in total, and they are plain spruce, and I will be making end 'plates' that are epoxied to the hull, to allow proper support, even though the main purpose right now is to maintain the deck 'crown', or curvature. They are glued to the underside of the deck using constructiion glue, this is part of an experiment I am doing, as construction gluye is a one part deal, no mixing like epoxy, no setting before it is in place. In the picture, I have supported the joist to maintain upwards pressure while the glue sets .

I have been slowly filling the keel back up after fixing the leak. I have used the original lead blocks, and instead of concrete and foam, I used polyester resin, with 3/4" crushed rock road gravel added. This should make it impossible for it to leak, or rather, any leak would be through just a crack, rather than a split.
This construction will give structural support to both sides of the centreboard trunk.
I will finish it off with a layer of woven matt, to make like a false floor.

My latest project is ripping off the old warped cedar strip decking, to seal all the screw holes where it was attached with small yellow brass deck screws, or in many areas the headless remains thereof.

The engine, too has to be addressed. There is a history of water getting into the oil.
Could be a cracked block, or maybe just a water pump seal.

Anyway, the main thing is that I am now in a getting better mode, doing construction rather than destruction.
I am hoping to soon have the deck basically cleaned right off, and all fittings re-caulked, with proper support pieces of hardwood under each one.